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Terroir in the AOC Muscadet Sevre et Maine is largely a story of granite, resulting from a billion-year-old upswelling of molten rock called the Massif Armoricain. Some of this granite remains near the surface where it has weathered to unique nutrient-rich clays, in other areas it has been changed into metamorphic schists and gneiss giving somewhat lighter soils. Since 1984, Marc Ollivier has been producing some of the finest wines in the Loire Valley, primarily from vineyards on the granitic soils around Maisdon-sur-Sevre and Clisson.  The most complex and long-aging Muscadets are produced from granite terroirs, such as Michel Bregeon's "Cuvee Gorgeois", Guy Bossard's "Expression de Granite," Luneau-Papin's "L d'Or"  - and Marc’s "Clos des Briords" (from old vines on Granite de Chateau Thebault, first produced in 1988). Growers around the town of Clisson who have vineyards on the unique, very dense stone of the area have petitioned the INAO for "Cru Communal" status, reflecting their unusual soils and involving stringent quality standards, and in 2005 Marc produced his first "Granite de Clisson" from a plot of 60 to 90 year-old vines in the Pepiere vineyard. Aged on the lees for 24 months, the wine possesses fantastic depth and aromatic complexity and will benefit from 10 to 15 years of aging. (Paradoxically, it cannot be labeled “Sur Lie” as it violates the current regulations which permit only nine months of aging) Marc has just released the 2007 Granite de Clisson, and although the vintage was more difficult, giving yields of only 20 hl/ha and a moderate 12.2 degrees alcohol, the elegance, balance and depth of this wine are simply astounding. In a recent conversation, Marc expressed his preference for the 2007, citing the better “fraicheur” and higher acidity. The last six months of sur-lie aging were essential and “vachement interessant” he said, as the warmer temperatures in the cellar over the spring and summer helped liberate material and complexity from the lees. (“Vachement” is one of the most important words in the French language and has something to do with cows…) The wine has just arrived in New York and despite the recent bottling is beginning to open up slightly showing intense aromatics of lemon oil, menthol and fennel with a dense and stony mid-palate. Marc is uncertain if it will age as well as his Clos des Briords, although a similar wine made by his neighbor Michel Bregeon is at its’ best between 20 and 25 years of age. Don't hesitate to enjoy this wine young however - two bottles recently consumed at my house were perfect accompaniments to full-flavored dishes with scallops and flounder. Following this wine’s development will be fascinating – this gives us old folks an inexpensive and delicious reason to stay around! At any rate there’s not too much of this wine to be had, as the French press has finally woken-up to the greatness of Marc's wines - so don’t delay, buy it from anyone you can, but buy it! And thanks to Marc for making such superb wines. I’ve known Marc, who just turned 50, for twenty years – he has been a great help to our work in the Loire Valley over the years and it’s wonderful to see him achieve the success he so richly deserves... (and yes, the price discounts to $19.79 on a case!)